I’ve been dying to get to Duck and Waffle since it opened a few months ago, so let’s just say I was a little excited, zooming up the side of Heron Tower in a glass lift. I’ll say it again: I’ve never been that high in London – in fact, you never quite realise how much time we spend scrambling around at ground level until you’re looking down on the gherkin.
Our booking was relatively early in the evening, but as Duck and Waffle is a fine dining restaurant open TWENTY FOUR HOURS that’s right TWENTY FOUR HOURS, there’s no awkward time to go. With a glass staircase, chandeliers and an island-style-bar in the middle of the sky, this is a restaurant that’s going to look good no matter what time it is. Nevertheless, we were very keen to see if the food matched up to the view.
Love you: We started with a few watermelon-sized olives, and Dates stuffed with sausage, wrapped in bacon. Totally delicious and a nice surprise to start. They kept up the standard, next was rabbit on toast and scallops…sounds normal enough…except they chill them, use them to wrap apple slices and put a series in a line on an iced block of rock salt. It may not be for everyone, but the ‘all day breakfast’ was pretty incredible: a delicate and generous serving of foie gras with egg and bacon, on fried brioche.
Leave you: There’s no denying there’s a slightly nightclubby, one-night-in-Vegas type-feeling to the restaurant. It may put some off, but not me. Service was good. A bit hyperactive, but maybe that was the height. Ok, ok, I’m making excuses, but I’d definitely go back to Duck and Waffle.
Whether you’re an obsessive diner or prefer to save and treat yourself, there’s no denying this venue has the WOW factor – which, surprisingly, if you think about it, doesn’t happen that much in this city. That being said, the food has a lot to live up to and it just about hits the mark. I like the tapas-style portion options, and the anything goes, mix it up approach to mealtime. Go.